I count among my friends a very talented writer named Steve Heimoff, whose name many of you will recognize form the pages of Wine Enthusiast, where Steve is the West Coast editor covering the wines of California for the magazine.
Steve and I have developed a solid foundation for friendship, I think, based on mutual respect – they guy can taste, and he can certainly write. Steve pens a great (independent) blog, where he recently wrote about a conundrum that’s been on his mind as a wine taster/reviewer:
“No one person can taste everything. So, if you’re a critic like I am, is it better for your palate to taste just wines from superior growing regions, or to at least try to taste everything, until the quantity of incoming becomes impossible?”
Steve raises an interesting point – one that touches on the bond between someone who reviews and writes about wines and the people who trust the reviews from that person. Depending on what you’re looking for, you may trust reviewers like Steve specifically because that person has tasted some of the best wines in the region they cover. But the other side of the coin is important as well – if you don’t taste a lot of the crappy plonk, your idea of the best might not be quite up to snuff. Just for the record, I’ve found Steve’s tastes in California wine to be very similar to my own, and I trust his palate without any reservation.
But there’s another aspect to Steve’s question, I think, which is this: California is a big place when it comes to winemaking, and it can be tough to venture outside of the norm when tasting wines that show best from CA.
What I mean is, it’s easy for those familiar with CA wine – especially CA winemakers themselves – to sort of judge everything with respect to the CA style. Steve knows his wine and he likely has little fear of that impacting his reviews. But as for less experienced tasters… well, they should take heed.
I’ve talked to many a CA winemaker who looked at me as if I had three heads when I described their wines as “big & juicy.” Often I’ve needed to clarify my opinion for them: their wines might not be big and juicy when compared to wines from CA, but they sure seem that way when compared to wines from the East Coast or from Europe – both of which influence the stylistic preferences of wine consumers on the Eastern seaboard.
The point is that not only is it important to taste a large variety of wines, t it might be even more important for those in CA to taste a larger variety of wines, especially given the volume of similarly-styled wines made in CA.
In other words: Off with the CA wine goggles!
..
Cheers!
Joe Roberts is a Certified Specialist of Wine and author of the award-winning 1WineDude.com wine blog. You can learn to taste wine the same way he did by checking out his tasting guide.









I opened this app and was greeted with the 

